Sunday in Coimbra

We've been looking at beautiful churches in Coimbra most of which have worship schedules posted indicating that they really are churches, not museums. I decided that I wanted to worship in one this morning. I had thoughts of going to the New Cathedral (18th c) since I figured it was likely to have the best music. It is located pretty close to the top of the hill. I reached the Old Cathedral three-quarters of the way up breathless about five to ten and could hear the organ, so I decided that I was high enough.

Between the Portuguese accent and the reverberation of the building I didn't catch everything, but did get the scripture readings and the apostles creed and the priest's request to be courteous to the tourists waiting outside to get in. (I later saw graffiti written on some steps saying tourists made the writer feel like he lived in a zoo, except there were other words included that I won't write here.) Can't say that I could blame the writer as I took shots of narrow streets and flowers on balconies.

I shared a pew with a woman in a suit who I'm pretty sure is a nun. I suspect she is principal of a school because several adolescent girls came up for hugs after the service asking what she thought of their singing. The music was sweet and resonant, totally fitting for the 12th c Romanesque building, although less than professional. There was a wide range of ages in the service including young people in the pew in front of us, and several worshippers of African ancestry including the priest and a couple of the young acolytes.

After the service, I explored the cloister, which dated from the thirteenth century. I could sit there all day with my thermos of tea and a book.

Steve stayed in the rooom this morning working on his presenteations to be recorded in Rome (the reason for the trip.) I brought him back in the afternoon. This time we did make it all the way to the new cathedral. I was amazed at how, after worshipping with the nun and the rest of the congregation this morning, I felt a loyalty to the Old Cathedral as "my church." The "new" gilded 18-th c baroque church felt gaudy and modern.

For lunch we went back to a little outdoor cafe where we ate nata yesterday (little warm custard pies made with filo dough) and ate quiche and salad and THEN nata and cafezinho. It is quite warm in the sun and we enjoyed the nice breeze.