Arles is a Roman town.
We had a walking tour through the narrow streets of the old town
to the first-century amphitheater.
In Roman days it was open all around with free admission to all. Bread and circuses to keep the masses content. In the unrest following the fall of Rome in the fifth century, the citizens turned it into a fortress by closing off most of the ground level entrances and building 200 homes inside.
The old houses were cleared in the 19th century and today the amphitheater is used for bull fights. The Spanish style where the bull is killed is losing popularity, replaced by Provence's bloodless tradition of catching ornaments hung between the bull's horns. The idea reminded me of ancient Cretan bull dancing.
Around the corner is the Roman theatre, still in use today.
Vincent Van Gogh, for whom our ship was named, came to Arles in 1888. The locals thought him weird and hated his unusual painting style. One of his starry night paintings was done from precisely the curve in the river where our boat was mored.
There and elsewhere in Arles are signs that show the painting from that spot. When he cut off his ear, he was hospitalized here.
We had some free time to explore the Saturday market--more than a mile of color and chaos. I should have taken a picture, but I got separated from Ingrid. I was coming down with a cold and ended up sitting in the sun with my thermos of tea in the plaza where we were to meet, listening to this saxophonist compete with a folk guitarist at the other end of the square.
After lunch (a soup and salad bar back on the ship with one hot entree that I never bothered with) and a nap, I took a walk along the river bank, venturing into town at interesting places.
More people coming to the salon early to reserve places for the 6 PM recital. Today we went at 5 with books and drinks, and we were none too soon.
George Bizet – Farandole from L’Arlesienne (a traditional Provençal dance celebrating a woman specifically from Arles)
Modeste Mussorgsky – The Marketplace in Limoges, Catacombs, and Con Mortuis in Lingua Mortua from Pictures at an Exhibition (in honor of market day in Arles, and with a description from Aurélian of the Roman Alyscamps necropolis outside of his hometown of Arles)
*Lili Boulanger – Nocturne and Cortège for Violin and Piano (younger sister of the famed compositional pedagogue Nadia Boulanger, who connects to Gershwin and Piazzolla later)
Maurice Ravel – Jeux d’Eau (to provide the water missing from the fountain in Arles town square)
*Maurice Ravel – Pièce en forme de Habanera (one of many examples of Spanish-flavored music by French composers)
George Bizet – Toreador Song from Carmen (this music is played at the Arles Amphitheater during events with bulls)
*George Bizet – Habanera from Carmen (enhanced by a red fan we purchased in the market that morning and Aloysia’s acting skills)
*Claude Debussy – Beau Soir (and indeed it was a beautiful evening)
After dinner a local Gypsy family came on board to present traditional music. By that time I was feeling pretty miserable with my cold, so I didn't stay long, but Ingrid stayed. The 11-year-old guitarist is also a pianist, and he and Jackie ended up improvising together.
Tomorrow will be more exploring Van Gogh sites.
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